Amma Don og Öx

My destination was Amma Don, a Reykjavík speakeasy at 55 Laugavegur.

There was no signage, just a graffiti-covered entryway with a brass lion on the wall. The lion’s tongue sticks out and when I depressed it a woman voice asked of my intentions. I passed muster and was buzzed in where I walked down a blank hallway to a set of industrial stairs that led down to a small room about 12 meters square. On one wall was a carved wooden door. Going through it I found myself transported to a 50s retro-styled lounge where I was greeted by a young woman dressed in black and shown to a low table that had my name on a card at my place. After sitting down in a comfortable chair my companions for the evening began to filter in, I was given a glass of champagne and vintage book by Halldór Laxness (which contained the drinks menu—if the champagne weren’t enough.) A man from California was seated next to me, we were the only singletons. Pleasantries were exchanged, and an amuse bouche arrived to tickle my palate. After cocktails we were led to a bookcase to the right of the bar:

The bookcase swung open and we entered Öx, a Michelin star restaurant. The seventeen of us found seats around the horseshoe-shaped table:

A rotating group of chefs in aprons explained and prepared the food in front of us, while the sommelier (in a suit) explained the history of each vintage:

The courses came in due course, each chosen to reflect an Icelandic food heritage: potato + miso + rutabaga; laufabrauð + juniper + hangiköt; lamb + butter; caviar + choux + duck eggs; chicken liver + red beets + red currant. The scallop + dulse + fennel pollen was a miracle:

The list went on: halibut + rhubarb + fig leaf; shrimp + tomatoes + habanero; salmon + quinoa + sea urchin; rutabaga + almond + brown butter; geothermal rye bread + butter + trout; monkfish + yeast + dulse; quail + unagi + unagi. Then came the lamb—fresh—never frozen (“only good at this time of year”) + feykir + beetroot:

Wasabi leaf + crémant + pumpkin seeds?:

With ten courses of wine and drinks it all became a blur: Bilberry + marscapone + roses; sea buckthorn + carrot + ginger?  I do remember them preparing the main dessert: beignet + Omnon (chocolate) + malt:

Ooooh…

One of them asked me how it was, I answered “Þetta er allt að koma“ which impressed him greatly. After a couple more “desserts” (chicken skin? + sea salt + liquorice; toffee + barley) and a shot of their own spiced liqueur, it was over and they all took a bow:

Thus ended my three and a half hour Michelin star restaurant dining experience. It is hard to compare to a regular (or even a superlative) restaurant meal. It may be a bit too much, but once (or twice) in a lifetime is just right.