Monday, February 22, 2016

Mondays in Iceland - #50


I heart Reykjavík tour group, Reykjavík, October 9, 2015

Tough Choices

Maria at Iceland Eyes has been posting a series of short essays on the state of Iceland, past and present, dealing with dealing with the Icelandic economy and its relationship to tourism. The underlying question is one which has plagued Iceland for over a thousand years: self governance. The posts aren’t terribly long (although they are much longer than a tweet!) but if you want to read only one to get the gist of them I suggest reading  There's a Fine Line Between Opportunity and Opportunism, Isn't There?

My last couple of visits to Reykjavík have been somewhat bittersweet: seeing myself in the role of an obnoxious camera-toting tourist trying to fit in where I don’t really belong. The continuing property development in the city has been, with a few exceptions, disheartening as well. But whenever I’m there I always have some great moments: moments when the “I” melts into the background and the “not I” is able to experience life in a new way. That said, I may have had enough of life on the rock, it’s getting harder to imagine going back again. I will really miss the theatre and the pool, however, and the people I have met there have been great.

From time to time, on my other blog, Laxness in Translation, I get inquiries about Icelandic literature and culture. Recently, writer Dan Kois (Slate and New York Times) wrote me asking about any connections that Halldór Laxness might have to the Icelandic swimming culture (there weren’t any) so I gave him some suggestions of people to contact. I mentioned I Heart Reykjavík, telling him that Auður would probably be too busy to help him but her blog had a lot about swimming. A few days later, Auður tweeted:
“I get quite a lot of media requests every month. They all want the non-touristy Iceland to send more tourists there... ”
So maybe I really am part of the problem!

UPDATE: The Dan Kois article is up at the New York Times and it is great.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 4 


Monday, April 13, 2015

Screenshots

Today I thought I would share some of the websites I’ve been recently frequenting:



No surprise here, I’ve been following Auður for over eleven years now! Her I Heart Reykjavík site is “By far the best Icelandic website of which I am aware”, even if I do say so myself. She’s turned it into a multipurpose portal with tips on Reykjavík attractions, car rentals, and even offers up the opportunity to personally bask in the glow of her fabulousness on her walking tour of Reykjavík. The tour has been getting rapturous reviews; look it up on TripAdvisor if you need further persuasion.

Another site I've been visiting a lot lately is the Já map site:



Unfortunately it does use the clunky Google Maps style navigation, (the Apple Maps version is much easier to use) but in spite of that drawback I return to it because it is the most detailed Iceland map available; it even includes bike paths. Speaking of bicycles, here's a screenshot of another site I’ve been looking at:



If you need a bike in Reykjavík, Bike Company is the place to get one. The day rates are rather high, but if you email them you can get a pretty good weekly rate in the off season. The last time I was in Reykjavík I used my rental bike every day, finding it to be especially handy when going to the swimming pools:



I’ve been to three of them, although I wouldn't rank them the way the Grapevine did, but  each has its own merits and debits. These mostly outdoor pools are a must-visit, even if you have to shower naked before entering.

If you are starting to detect a trend here this next screen shot will reveal the underlying theme in today's post:



I AM GOING BACK TO ICELAND!

If the third time's a charm, will the sixth time be twice as charming? I intend to absorb as much culture as humanly possible in my seven days there and will definitely make it a point to catch Auður’s walking tour.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 5 


Tuesday, April 03, 2012

Eight Miles High

This is chapter 7 of Window Weather, a serial fiction novel on FITK
“Hi, my name is Sally O’Donnell, what’s yours?”

Sean’s trip had started off with a bang. The vivacious red-haired woman next to him was a talker—Sean’s plan of disappearing into the airplane’s upholstery was already doomed, he thought. Better to be cordial, yet non-committal, or, better yet, be absolutely boring.

“Hi. I’m Sean.”

“Sean? Sean from Seattle, huh? Ha! What brings you aboard this flight?”

“Scandinavian studies.”

“Sounds boring. I’m going for some action, a change of scenery, a change of luck.”

“Well, I’m certain that you’ll find the scenery unique although I’ve never been a believer in luck.”

"Oh, I believe in luck alright. Some good, some bad. Lucky in love, I’m not. After my last husband referred to me as his ‘entropy wife’ I knew that the fire was out. Ha! How about you, I mean not like I’m hitting on you, ha, but are you attached?”

“Yes… I’m in a relationship.”

“Oh, that’s too bad… for you, I mean. Hah! An exotic locale. No one knows who you are? An agreeable woman. We could see the midnight sun, you and me—if you know what I mean. I’m kidding of course… or am I?"

Wow,” thought Sean, “We hadn't even left the ground yet and I am already paired with a bona fide loony!

“Really, Ms. O’ Donnell, I’m spoken for,” said Sean, as dispassionately as he could.

“Just breaking the ice. No harm, no foul—no need to be offended. Please, Sean, you call me Sally.”

Sean had really wanted to open his laptop and begin reading some of Billy’s old emails and blog contacts. As the plane was taking off, he thought it better that Sally knew as little as possible of him and his mission. “Remember—be boring,” he thought, “Or, perhaps, being corny would work better.”

“Sally, you are really something,” said Sean, “If I were free, I just might take you up on your offer. But, alas, my heart is betrothed to another, perhaps in another lifetime?”

“Aw, a real nice guy! I thought they were extinct. Oops, I think we just left the ground. I like this part of the flight, this and the landing. The rest is a drag.”

The jet began its climb and soon they were over the Cascades, heading away from the fading sunlight. It headed northeast toward Hudson’s Bay. From there it would fly over Greenland, finally landing in Keflavík. In less than seven hours Sean would be standing on the streets of Reykjavík.

“Sally, I’ve read that when traveling more than three time zones, you shouldn’t eat until you arrive. Doing that is supposed to help you avoid jet-lag.”

“Well that might be true for some but I'm starving,” said Sally, “And I could use a drink!”

“The drinks are on me—it isn’t every day I have such a boon companion.”

“Thank you, Sean, I’ll take you up on that.”

By the time the jet was over Greenland Sally was snoring.

Sean took out his laptop and opened one of the files that he had copied from Billy’s college computer:

July 3, 2004

My pals Emma and Helga and Kristín were hot on going to the Navy Base Club so I said I'd be the driver. I felt I owed them as much for what they've done for me but I regretted it the minute I said I would. I'd been to the club before, when I was drinking, and I wasn't impressed. So, I really wasn't looking forward to going when sober. Anyway, we drove down to the base where we signed a bunch of papers to get on the base and then a man made us sign again, just to let us into the club. I thought it was a lot of fuss just to be able to get into a dive joint but I wasn't going to bitch because it was the girls' night out.

First thing I notice when I get in the door is Billy, the hotshot who's says he is the son of a U.S. Senator, standing with all his friends at the bar and then he turned and noticed me and the girls. The guys were whispering to each other as we walked by and when we sat down on the other side of the room they were all staring with smirks on their faces. Obviously Billy thought I must be stalking him because I was in "his" club at the U.S. base. Cue "You're so Vain" on the soundtrack.

Every now and again Billy led his friends on a tour to our table until they all knew exactly who the crazy stalker girl was. I had only seen him twice: once last weekend at Gaukurínn where we talked for a only little while, and then again when I ran into him on Laugi Thursday- when he asked me for my number. Of course he didn't call. What is with these Americans? I don't care if his father is the Pope of Rome, at least he could call me. Once. One of his friends tried to show an interest in me at the club but I just ignored him rather than fall for that kind of pick-up routine. Not that his friend was too ugly but I thought that any friend of Billy who would try such a trick must be somehow deranged.

Because all of that action wasn't quite enough fun for one night we then went to a strip club. When the bar lady found out I wasn't drinking she was nice enough to give me a glass of coke. While we were there all the usual stuff happened: some sketchy old lady asked me if I wanted a private show, then a drunken guy wanted us to hit on his married co-worker. The strippers walked around patting the Navy guys on the ass (to see how much money they had!) then after a while Billy and his friends came in so we gave up and went home. Both girls passed out in the car. So it was just me, with Emma drooling on my lap, who was awake to greet the sun coming up over highway 41.

I think it might be a while until I go sober to a club again. It's just too depressing. What's up with Billy by the way, does he honestly think I'm just desperately in love with him and that I intentionally hunt him down? It's a small island. I can't help it if I keep running into him.

   Crazy Americans!

Posted at 0330 by Silu

So, that was what he was up to that summer,” thought Sean. He had wondered where Billy would disappear to for weeks at a time. Billy’s game was always the same, with only the playing field changing. He would fly in, pick his next conquest, alternately ignore or pay casual attention to her, and then turn on the heat as he went for the kill. From the young woman’s conflicted blog post it was evident to Sean that Billy’s sleazy charm had worked as well in Iceland as it had in the States. He must have had some success with her if he kept this post. Sean was going to read more of her blog, although he thought that she wouldn’t have felt like writing about him after she had been dumped. Sean considered another possibility. Billy might have had a change of heart;  the reason he had gone back to Iceland was that he had really fallen for someone this time. Not very likely. Billy probably had had at least a half-dozen other conquests. Sean made a mental note to have someone back at intelligence in Seattle see if they could find this “Silu.” She might be the key to Billy’s whereabouts.

Sally had stopped snoring and began to stir so Sean shut down his laptop and looked out the window. There were traces of northern lights dancing in the distance. “No midnight sun this early in the year,” he thought.


Next Chapter: Keflavík

By Professor Batty


Monday, October 13, 2014

Auður Update



It's October, that time of year when the professor's thoughts turn to Iceland. As any regular reader of FITK knows, some of the the prime inspirations for this blog were Iceland and my all time favorite Icelandic blogger Auður Ösp Olafsdóttir. I consider her I Heart Reykjavík website the finest Icelandic travel site anywhere. She has managed to create and maintain an informative and entertaining site while still retaining a personal touch. Her humorous "Learn Icelandic" podcasts allow the listener to get a sense of her low key yet engaging personality.

Recently she has become the focus of international attention, with mentions in the Sunday travel section of The New York Times and this segment from the website Daily Travel Podcast.

Speaking as one who is usually allergic to podcasts, I found this one to to be well worth thirty minutes of my time—especially around the 19 minute mark when Auður opens up about her personal history leading up to her starting I Heart Reykjavík.

UPDATE: Another interview, this time with the Travel Mammal


By Professor Batty


Comments: 1 


Thursday, January 03, 2013

New Year's Revolution


Faye and Rich Lewis, Whitey's Bar, Minneapolis, 2012

A year, one revolution in the earth’s orbit,

The world is always changing, yet it also remains the same.

This isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

Heaven help us all if we were doomed to live our lives in an eternal repeat, ala the film Groundhog Day.

That side of the internet which consists of original, self-published material is not immune from the ravages of time. Blogs, special interest sites, even the occasional inspired twitterer have each in their own way managed to lift my spirits.

Many of them have “closed up shop” or just drifted away. That has always been the case (in this still very young medium) but it seems that the close of 2012 has seen more than its share of casualties: Maria, ECS, Darien, Things, Monday Note, have all seemed to come to an end. They might come back some day, in another form perhaps—it’s perfectly OK to leave the sur-reality of the internet—it’s not as important as living one's life to the fullest.

But there are new voices, I’ve found several new Icelandic sources this year, with Larissa's Ð and Þ (eth & thorn) leading the way. Gemma's Seattle based blog has shown promise as well in covering the Icelandic scene. Pascal Pinon, those musical twins from Iceland, have developed their self-titled tumblr into a very effective showcase for their music and art; it is a model for how to create an entertaining and original showcase which is more than just a bunch of recycled promos.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention Auður Ösp's I Heart Reykjavík, a great example of a tourism blog. She’s started a newsletter as well, I suspect she will continue in her tradition of lively writing (I’ve been following her in one form or another for nearly nine years!) Check out her current post. She has always inspired me with her wonderful outlook on life, both real and virtual.

And so, in light of all this rambling, I’ll commit myself to another year of FITK. If that sounds as if I’m being sent to a mental institution the similarity is no accident. More randomness in 2013, for sure, but I will definitely finish the “serial fiction.” I’ve been dreaming the new chapters—but sometimes it takes more than one restless night...


Note: The picture at the top doesn’t have much to do with the post beneath- it’s just two of my favorite people, doing what they enjoy. Doing what you enjoy? I guess that is the theme of this post, after all!

By Professor Batty


Comments: 0 


Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Fimm Konur


Tjörnin, Rekjavik, 2015

It would be disingenuous of me not to acknowledge the women who enriched my recent trip to Reykjavík. As it has always been, even from before the beginning of FITK, it seems that it is the women who have always made the biggest impression on me in my restless wanderings in the wilds of the 'blogosphere' (how quaint that term seems now), and in my real world sojourns as well. 



M—, writer and erstwhile blogger, met me at her favorite local coffeehouse, we wasted no time in catching up. Not so much in listing our recent activities but, rather, where we were in the arc of our respective lives. She had experienced some stormy weather; it had tested her and caused her to do much soul-searching as well as no little amount of real anguish. Our conversation came to a peak in a moment of shared non-verbal emotion—only a second or two—when the gap between us seemed to disappear and our facades crumbled in the shared awareness of our humanity.
I waited 'til I saw the sun
I don't know why I didn't come
I left you by the house of fun
I don't know why I didn't come


Y—, artist, musician, advocate. Resolute in the face of adversity, this survivor has never given up in her eight decades of striving for the expansion of consciousness and the greater good of humanity. Standing in a freezing drizzle, she addressed the faithful who, like her, had come to this windswept island in the bay to honor the legacy of her long since departed soul-mate.
Out across the endless sea
I would die in ecstasy
But I'll be a bag of bones
Driving down the road alone


?—, an accidental dinner companion, who had come to Iceland from Japan to see the auroras, geysers, and to steep herself in a foreign culture. Our words were few but our shared laughter and the brief flickers of connection were genuine. The restaurant's background music was Norah Jones—a fitting, if somewhat oblique, soundtrack to our current situation.
Something has to make you run
I don't know why I didn't come
I feel as empty as a drum
I don't know why I didn't come


U—, with whom I shared water and philosophy. From Africa, via England, she had found a new home and a spouse in Iceland, as well as becoming assimilated into the culture. She enjoyed a close relationship with her new-found community. She spoke of overcoming 'the fear' which can isolate us and which brings us only misery. She radiated life, and as she interacted with the patrons of the pool they reciprocated the feeling.
When I saw the break of day
I wished that I could fly away
Instead of kneeling in the sand
Catching teardrops in my hand


And finally there was A—, my long-time Icelandic inspiration, who has transformed herself from a callow youth into a minor institution—as well as becoming an un-official "greeter"; the first Icelander many people interact with. She has given and given for so long, to so many people around the world, that she has outgrown me—outgrown in the best sense of the word. I only had a few seconds to say hello and goodbye.
My heart is drenched in wine
But you'll be on my mind
Forever…

Don't Know Why lyrics by Jesse Harris.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 3 


Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Nitecap

                                       

I had stopped in for a drink; it was a tiny, tiny bar. Funky but charming and not without renown. Being relatively early only a few people were inside- they were talking quietly at a couple of the mis-matched tables. I came in because I was cold (October nights in Reykjavík are never warm), and because I was curious. I had seen the place before in a Björk video (where it looked a lot bigger.) Now a new generation of young and beautiful artists and performers had claimed it as their own. I was the oddity- an old man in a tweedy sport coat (with leather patches on the elbows, of course) scratching notes in a battered Moleskine and sipping whisky. I had heard from a shop-keeper earlier in the day that some buildings in this part of town were to be redeveloped, it might be my last opportunity to stop in.

The tunes on the house system were pretty cool modern stuff- someone there had good musical taste- but I was a bit surprised when Neil Young came on the box, singing Heart of Gold. My thoughts drifted back to the early 70's and seeing him live, in a solo concert in a small theater. It was the place where I had heard that song for the very first time: "...and I'm getting old..." Ha. He might have been thirty then. Yet still he perseveres, his deceptively simple music reaching every new generation.

As the place began to fill up, a young woman asked if she and her friend could share my table; "not a problem" I said, "I was leaving soon anyway." I finished my drink, and as I walked out, I noticed that the walls were stenciled with the graphic design of the control panel of an ARP 2600- an early synthesizer. Another connection to the past, an in-joke for vintage electronica enthusiasts. Years ago I had used one, even going so far as to make an artsy "performance" tape- a tape still gathering dust in my basement.

"Will the cycles never end?" I muttered to myself as I walked out the door, leaving those ghosts behind in the bar. Outside, the cold Icelandic night saw to it that I quickly returned to a more timely "reality", more's the pity, that.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 2 


Wednesday, September 23, 2015

New Fall Season on FITK

I’ll be in and out of out of town a lot in the next three weeks causing my  posts to be even more haphazard than usual. In light of that fact I’m giving an update on my link-list (featured in the sidebar) in case you are looking for some more sustenance from your usual blog-fodder.

Culture: Starts off with All Dylan, which some might call Too Much Dylan. Still, it is a wealth of information and innumerable concert videos of Bob as well as those of related artists. Sheila O’Malley’s The Sheila Variations is a movie and pop-culture review site with an occasional foray into literature and a serious infatuation with the music of The Troggs, extremely well-written. Tyler Cowen’s MarginalRevolution economics blog is often incomprehensible to me but has great links and interesting cultural side trips.

Literati includes Azizi’s pancocojams which offers an in-depth look at a wide variety of culture descended from African roots. Jono’s Otto’s Son occasional blog has been on a roll lately, with interesting excerpts from his father’s WWII diaries and photo essays on life in the arrowhead region of Minnesota' 'North Coast'. Over on the East Coast, Karen Newton’s I COULD GO ON AND ON really does just what the title implies; I wouldn’t miss a single day of this Joie de vivre blog from Richmond, Virginia. Like Nabokov, Karen is, above all else, a first-class "noticer". Shoshanah’s diary is the chronicle of a kindred spirit’s quest to make sense of life, art, child-rearing and animal husbandry; she is a true Flippist Master.

Iceland: Alas! My Icelandic connections have been fading lately, the notable exception being Auður's stellar I Heart Reykjavík. She has managed the extremely rare feat of turning her blog into a successful commercial enterprise without losing her personal touch. Her Twitter feed (in the TNT sidebar link) is great as well. (UPDATE: Closed due to Covid)

Tech: A more technical offering, but also somewhat "Flippist", is Bob the Scientist’s Science matters.  Often obscure but always astute.

TNT includes two twitterers of note: Aparna Nancheria, who is a stand-up comic and writer, has a great feed. I often find myself laughing out loud at her koan-like pronouncements on modern life. I don't have any idea who Mike Ginn (not the actor) is but I find his twitter feed hilarious.

Of course you are welcome to peruse all the links in my sidebar (you can even check out my depressing sitemeter). I use them as sort of a personalized RSS feed (remember those?)

By Professor Batty


Comments: 5 


Wednesday, December 19, 2012

In the Belly of the Beast

This is chapter 26 of Window Weather, a serial fiction novel on FITK



Sally was right.

The reception was full of young women who were interested in Billy. Twenty-somethings were well represented—many of them casting surreptitious glances Sean’s way. The thirty-somethings simply stared. “Clothes make the man?” thought Sean. Herbert, who had been assigned to ‘Billy’ as his valet, had certainly known what he was doing. Billy’s closets contained quite a collection of high-end men’s clothes and Herbert really knew how to coordinate them, although Sean didn’t care for the shoes Herbert picked; Sean had to convince him to ditch the wingtips. Sean idly wondered if Billy’s appearance, in the minds of the single women in attendance, inspired thoughts of a White House wedding. He was starting to think the same way that Billy would have.

A large group was waiting for the Senator in the foyer and adjoining rooms of a sizeable mansion in suburban Richmond. His plane was late; he was flying in from a rally in Miami. Sean’s appetite still had not returned, so he drank champagne, as discreetly as possible. The staff saw to it that his glass was never empty. Nora and Sally kept their eyes on ‘Billy.’ They were making sure that Sean looked as if he was enjoying himself. He was seated on a sofa by the fireplace, with a stupid ‘PR grin’ plastered on his face. Sean stood up to greet one of the thirty-somethings who had come over and had asked to sit beside him. She was slim, in a black cocktail dress and flats. The woman placed her expensive-looking clutch purse between them. The diamond studded earrings that she wore must have been at least three carats each; her style could be summed up in a word: expensive.

“You’re looking sharp, Billy, your maturity suits you. Did you pick out those clothes?”

“I’m afraid not, it is my man Herbert who has the fashion eye.”

“Herbie’s still around? He’s the only person who has ever had any class in that house,” said the woman, “So, tell me, where have you been hiding since you dumped me, without so much as a phone call, seven years ago?”

“So sorry about that. Mea Culpa,” Sean said. He didn’t have the faintest idea who the woman was, but, using Billy’s M.O., Sean tried to mollify her. The champagne was starting to have an effect on him and he was becoming quite relaxed. “I’ve been abroad. You might say that I’m still trying to find my place in the world."

“Abroad? Your place in the world?” said the woman, “Hahaha. Billy, always the kidder. Your place in the world is on a broad. Tell me this, international man of mystery, what is my name?”

“What?”

“You heard me, what is my name? Say it. Tell me my name... ” There was a pause as the woman waited for an answer. “You can’t even remember my Goddamn name, can you?”

“No, I’m sorry, I can’t,” Sean knew this wasn’t the place to start a fight with one of Billy's old girlfriends, “Please forgive me, I’m not the man I once was.”

“As if that were true. I’ve seen you looking around. Who will get ‘the Billy treatment’ tonight?”

“Look, I didn’t come here to make a scene, or to pick up a woman. I’m just doing what I can to help my father. Please, let it go. If you will excuse me.”

Sean stood up to leave the woman but when he turned around to leave the room kept on turning without him. He was a lot drunker than he had thought. At that same moment, a commotion erupted outside the mansion: the limo with the senator was arriving. The whirling of the room around Sean’s head began moving down to his gut. Sean asked one of the serving staff where the bathroom was. Everyone in the house was rushing the other way in order to greet the Senator.

Sean made it to a bathroom where he managed to have the wherewithal to hang up Billy’s jacket before he ‘assumed the position’ in front of the toilet. Between purges, Sean could hear the applause growing from the crowd that was now outside the house. Then a great roar went up and, at the exact same moment, everything went dark and Sean felt an excruciating pain in his belly. He was still retching and his abdominal pains increased with each new spasm. He could feel a warm wetness seeping through his shirt and when he reached to touch it he felt the handle of a knife. He heard a muffled voice speak:

“Bastard.”

And then he passed out.



To: MollyBee23@SeattleBestMail.net
From: M.Robinson@ADRinc.com
Re: Sean

Molly, I received something this pm which confirms your doubts. Meet me at the aluminum tree in the sculpture garden 5ish? And bring the clearest photo you have of Sean's face. 

Mary




To: M.Robinson@ADRinc.com
From: MollyBee23@SeattleBestMail.net

Re: Re: Sean 

I'll be there, 5 it is.

Molly


On the plaza of the sculpture garden, Mrs. Robinson found Molly looking at an image of Sean on her iPad.

“Molly! You’ve got a good picture of Sean? Great. Let’s go inside. I have something to show you.”

The women went into the pavilion and got coffee before they sat down. Mary Robinson opened a folder containing papers and photographs.

“Molly, zoom in and look at the right eye of Sean in your photo and give me an approximate position of the brown flecks in his iris—as if they were numbers on a clock face.”

“I see a small one at two o’clock, a larger one at seven, and another small one between nine and ten.”

“Now, look at this enlarged section of the photo I received in an image file today. The right eye.”

“They are they same.”

“Now, look at the other eye.”

“The same pattern is on each eye in both photographs.”

“Now look at this—the full image—and tell me what you see.”

“It’s Sean, sitting in a cafe, in the daytime, holding a foreign newspaper up to his face.”

“It’s Icelandic. Now, look at the date on the paper.”

“It says ‘Five Maí.’”

“That’s the morning after Sean was supposedly killed,“ said Mary, “You were right, he is alive.”

“Where did you get this?” asked Molly.

“It was in a memory card that was hidden in a greeting card—mailed from Reykjavík on the fifth. Look for yourself,” Mary said, handing Molly the card. Mary read the inscription.

Not dead yet. It’s in the card. Your eyes only. Wait for instructions.

“What does it mean, Mrs. Robinson? Why hasn’t Sean called or sent an email?”

“I’m not certain why, but we now know for sure that the body in the morgue isn’t Sean’s. How did you know that it wasn’t, Molly?”

“There is a tiny scar on Sean’s chest, just above his heart… From where I bit him.”

“That might be too much information, but I’ll make an exception in this case. I’ve got too much information as well, more information that was also on the memory card. It may explain who is behind this situation, but I am not yet at liberty to talk about it. We need to go back to the morgue and make them do a dental record check. I’ll tell them that the company’s life insurance policy requires it. That may buy us enough time to find out what has happened to Sean.”

As she spoke, Mary Robinson’s phone began to buzz. She read the text message that had been sent from the office:

Breaking news Billy C stabbed TV is all over it pls advise

“Molly, we may find out sooner than I thought. Can you pull up a news feed on your pad?”



Next Chapter: Mr. Lucky

By Professor Batty


Saturday, August 10, 2013

How I Spent My Summer Vacation - II

I haven't really stopped reading, I just stopped posting about those books I actually did read. To make up for it, here is a selection of random summer books—each of which I found memorable in some way:



Middlesex by Jeffrey Eugenides was a big blockbuster over a decade ago, and deservedly so. A family history that touches of race, gender-identity, US social upheaval and the downfall of Detroit, and that's just for starters. It could have been a mess but Eugenides pulls it off. It will be read in the future.

The Pig Did It  by Joseph Caldwell is one in a series of British comedy/mystery novels. All the tropes are there, freshened up with some modern references. I wouldn't be surprised if this series gets picked up by the BBC someday. Forgettable, but laugh out loud fun.

Hey Nostradamus!  Is gen-x author Douglas Coupland's look at a Columbine-type school shooting. Not a grim as it sounds, but it is a penetrating look at the causes of and effects from such a modern tragedy.



David Byrne’s How Music Works should be titled How David Byrne Thinks, but that doesn't diminish this book in any way. Very thoughtful analysis of the modern music scene, with a surprising plea for greater amateur participation.  Should be a textbook in music appreciation and music composition classes. This is a book about the why of music, not the how.

Masters of Atlantis is a thirty year old book by Charles Portis, the author of True Grit. Portis is a master of idiomatic American speech, and he pulls out all stops in this wild yarn about a group of misfits who create a successful arcane cult in the twenties and then spend the rest of their days frittering it away. It takes a while to get going, but it goes out with a bang.

Finally, The Far Traveler (2007) is another book by Nancy Marie Brown about the Iceland Sagas, this time about Gudrid Thorbjarnardottir, a contemporary of Eric the Red,  who was the first European to give birth in the New world, outlived a succession of husbands, and even visited Rome in the 11th century! Brown is a good writer, but her work always seemed to be a little light to me. A good companion to her previous Song of the Vikings, she probably could have gotten one great book out of these two and her blog.

On a more ephemeral note, Auður's I Heart Reykjavík blog has been getting better and better, with more personal posts, it is by far the best Icelandic website of which I'm aware.

Those of you seeking a truly unique "literary experience" may want to check out Clayton Cubitt's hysterical literature, definitely NSFW!

By Professor Batty


Comments: 3 


Monday, March 30, 2020

Hard Times in Ultima Thule



With favoring winds, o'er sunlit seas,
We sailed for the Hesperides,
The land where golden apples grow;
But that, ah! that was long ago.

How far, since then, the ocean streams
Have swept us from that land of dreams,
That land of fiction and of truth,
The lost Atlantis of our youth!

Whither, ah, whither? Are not these
The tempest-haunted Orcades,
Where sea-gulls scream, and breakers roar,
And wreck and sea-weed line the shore?

Ultima Thule! Utmost Isle!
Here in thy harbors for a while
We lower our sails; a while we rest
From the unending, endless quest.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, excerpt from Ultima Thule, 1880

Sixteen years ago, when I was researching Icelandic blogs for an upcoming trip to Iceland, I ‘discovered’ Auður Ösp; I’ve been following her ‘quest’ ever since. Her example was the prime inspiration for the starting of Flippism is the Key. We met in real life in 2006 and this year I had a ticket to return, intending to meet up with her again. You may have heard of something that happened that prevents that scenario from occurring. While my personal story (compared the billions of others in the world) isn’t that important I find hers to be compelling.

For me, Auður’s greatest appeal was always her writing. An effective and personable communicator—her latest post is about how the pandemic is affecting her and is no exception to that rule. Auður (and her partner Hrannar) run the I Heart Reykjavík website, offering tours, links and a wealth of information about all things Icelandic. I have mentioned it many times during last ten years as I watched it grow into the preeminent resource for tourists visiting the island. She has been the face of Iceland to the thousands of people who have taken her tour or otherwise used her services. More than that, she “pays it forward” with contributions to worthy causes, including raising money by holding dinners in her home.

Now, the Covid-19 crisis has caused her business to collapse. Completely. She is stoic about it—Icelanders have faced hardships many times before—but this is a crisis of an entirely different magnitude. If it goes on as long as experts predict it will be a catastrophe, not just for her, but for all of Iceland.

Read the post.


Notice the donation button.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 1 


Wednesday, December 03, 2014

Advent Calendar



A confession.

Until I was in my late 20’s I had no idea of what an Advent Calendar was. We just didn’t do that in my home when I was young, or at least I was aware of their existence. When I grew up and got married we usually had one for our kids (when they were little), it held a definite charm for them until they got older.

Which brings me to the true subject of this post: Auður of I Heart Reykjavík is doing a 'virtual' Advent Calendar throughout the month on her site. If these daily posts are anything like some of her holiday writings I've read in the past they should be amusing and insightful—reflecting Icelandic culture through her own slightly skewed perspective. Worthy of a bookmark.

UPDATE: My favorite Icelandic Women's instrumental group amiina has posted their own Advent calendar.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 0 


Monday, April 02, 2012

Fish Leather and Dreams of Iceland


Fashion, Skólavörðurstígur, 2004

For all you dreamers out there...

It's been a while since I've done an overview of the Icelandic sites I've been visiting recently. There seems to be a resurgence of interest in Iceland, at least in the blogosphere. I've found several new sites and some of my old faves have been especially inspired lately. So, without further ado and in no particular order, respectfully submitted for your consideration:

UPDATE: All of the below links are now (2020) defunct except for the Pascal Pinon ones.

The Saga-Steads of Iceland: A 21st-Century Pilgrimage< by Emily Lethbridge, a 31-year-old Cambridge-based academic researcher. She is really into Iceland, past and present- a true fanatic.

Rósir og hraunbreiður (Roses and Lava) by Unnur Birna Karlsdóttir (Google translated) offers an intriguing look at Iceland and modern life.

Nancy Campbell is a writer and printmaker currently living in Siglufjörður.

I've mentioned I Heart Reykjavík before. This site keeps on getting better, an absolute must for anyone traveling to Reykjavík for the first time (or returning- things are changing rapidly.) Auður has the scoop on food, fashions and fun.

Maria Roff's Iceland Eyes has been especially fine lately with insightful essays complementing her eclectic photography. An honest portrayal of Iceland and also full of ideas of things to see and do.

Jono's Otto's son blog is from another Iceland-dreamer, he lives in Northern Minnesota, but has a genetic connection.

I'd Rather Be In Iceland by "Eva Lind" (no, she isn't Inspector Erlendur's daughter) says it all in the title. Hopelessly infatuated.

wdvalgardson's kaffihus is the blog of another "Western Icelander", the author is a true author, and his posts are exceptional- not for short-attention spans. His posts on Halldór Laxness' The Fish Can Sing and Paradise Regained are featured in the Laxness in Translation site.

Finally, that teen-age girl-group Pascal Pinon is touring Japan (What were you doing when you were 17?) in support of their album, with a new "Japan-only" EP. The link takes you to an index of sites related to PP. Don't forget to check out Ásthildur's home-made video including clips from their younger sisters- very dream-like!

By Professor Batty


Comments: 5 


Friday, May 15, 2020

So Far Away

This is Chapter 21 of The Inheritance, a serial fiction novel on FITK



Sunday Morning, July 19, 2020, Seattle

“Pabbí!”

Vilhjalmur’s cry when the FaceTime link was established was like a dagger plunged in the heart of Sean. The only regret Sean had about fathering the boy was that he couldn’t be with him enough. Now, with the Covid-19 restrictions on travel, he missed him more than ever. It had been a year since he had been in Iceland to be with him, and it looked as if it might be another year, or longer, until he could return. There were ways to get into Iceland but none that didn’t involve days of quarantine and/or flights from outside the US, all direct flights from Seattle were canceled and the ones out of Boston were few. Mareka also missed her half-brother, they were very close when little and still had a special bond. Sean knew that it would be even harder to arrange a flight for a child.

“Hæ,hæ. Villí,” said Sean, trying to be as composed as possible, “What’s new?”

“Oh Pabbí, I swam two laps in my swimming lessons! I’m learning about big cats in school, and I am going to sing með tvö stelpur at Fríkirkjan next month.”

Villí’s mix of Icelandic and English meant that Sean always kept his laptop open to a translation page whenever he FaceTimed on his iPad with his son.

“With two girls! Oh how I wish I could be there,” said Sean, “Þora will do a video, I hope.” Þora was Villí’s mother; she and Sean had gotten together in Reykjavík eleven years earlier, during the ‘Billygate’ affair. After that rocky beginning, Sean and Þora had made the best of the situation and, with the help of Þora’s uncle Hilmar, Sean had done whatever he could to help raise the boy, including living in Iceland for extended periods with Mary and Mareka. Sean and Villí talked for several minutes, with Villí showing his father his latest artwork. “Would you like to talk to your sister?” asked Sean before he handed the iPad to Mareka.

“Já, hæ hæ Mareka,” said the boy, “How are you doing?”

After that ‘formal’ greeting, the two children were off on an extended conversation, Mareka telling her brother all about her adventures of the previous two weeks, with special attention to ‘Ms Bright Eyes’, the backyard raccoon. Villí had some trouble figuring out exactly what a raccoon was, and why there was a wild animal living in her yard. The talking part didn’t seem to bother him. When the two had finished talking, Sean asked to talk to Þora before they disconnected. When Þora came on the screen Sean was shocked at her appearance. She looked as if he had been crying. He knew that the Covid crisis had been hard on her—she had lost her job in the tourist industry-literally overnight. Some tourists were now starting to come again, mostly from the Schengen Area, but the number was only a small fraction of previous years.

“Hello, Þora,” said Sean.

“Hæ.” Þora’s voice was quiet, restrained.

“Email me, tell me everything that is going on,” said Sean, “You know that I will do anything I can, anything in my power for you and Villí.”

“Já, I will. I feel like I’m loosing the thread sometimes,” she said, “We miss you and Mareka, and Mary, she is like a sister to me.”

“We’ll continue to monitor the travel situation, a lot depends on how big the Covid rebound is. We’d love to come, or have you come here, we have a lot of room in the new house.”

“Takk, I will write, goodbye,” said Þora, disconnecting.



Seattle’s TV station KWAH had seen better days. William Preston, its news director, had felt somewhat put upon by staffing cuts and he resented having to do grunt-work, things that used to be handled by flunkies and interns. That was why he had spent Saturday in the station looking at footage from the ‘witch riot.’ He had found Jo Sanford in his search but she was only in the background and, toward the end, standing on the bench of a bus stop across the street. He didn’t have any footage with Sean or Mary in it. A dead end or, what was more likely, a diversion and irrelevant to any real story. Preston couldn’t care less that Sean had been two-timing Mary, but he could make stretch the story to fill a couple of minutes on Monday’s newscast. Nobody had seen Mary or Mareka in Seattle after their return, and the only sighting of Sean and Jo was at the riot, no one had seen either of them since.

The story wasn’t dead yet.



Sunday Afternoon, July 19, 2020, Seattle

Barbara Merrit, against her better judgement, had agreed to meet Marcel DuPage again. She sensed that he had always been a ladies man, and that he had more than an idle interest in her. Seven years ago, when he met the mystery woman who had been to a dance with Sean and Mary, he may have been appealing, but now that he was older he was just creepy. Still, he had been the perfect gentleman and he just might know more about Sean and Mary than he was letting on. She had been waiting at the Paccar Pavilion in the Olympic Sculpture Park. He was late and Barbara got the impression that he liked to make a dramatic entrance.

“Ciao, bella!” said Marcel, as he breathlessly swept into the empty seat across from Barbara, “A beautiful day and a beautiful woman,” he continued, “I hope my not wearing a mask doesn’t disturb you. At least we are six feet away for each other.”

When they had previously met they were mask-less, at a bench in a nearly empty park, but most of the well-spaced crowd in the Paccar were wearing masks. Barbara took off hers.

“I choose this table because it is the most remote and not near the doors,” she said, “We should be alright. What have you got for me today?”

Marcel may have been six feet distant but Barbara could still smell his cologne. She saw herself becoming attracted to him, in a weird kind of way, before thinking; “He may have gotten involved with someone twice his age, but I’m not going to,” and then she laughed at herself even considering the notion.

“I’ve been looking at those pictures you sent me. There are some of Sean and Mary from Halloween, a few weeks later, it looks like they are in a park at night, there is a bonfire. File names IMG8732 through IMG8802.”

Barbara opened her iPad and found the files. She hadn’t noticed them before, they were available light shots and quite dim.

“File IMG8766,” said Marcel, opening his iPad, “I processed it in Photoshop and brought out some details.”

Marcel had massaged a nearly black image into a clear photo of Mary, Sean and ‘Emily’, Emily in a novelty witch costume. There was another woman in what also appeared to be a witch get-up, but her clothes were old, museum-grade, obviously antique. The face of the woman was still dark, however.

“One more adjustment,” said Marcel as he slid to the next image, “The mystery deepens.”

Marcel had enlarged the mystery woman’s face and done some more processing to bring out the features. It was very grainy, but what it portrayed was unmistakable. It was not a mask, but a real, three dimensional object.

What Marcel had coaxed from the shadows of the murky image was a human skull.



Next Chapter: Needle Park

By Professor Batty


Monday, June 20, 2011

Icelandic Stories



Over the last few months I've been discovering (and rediscovering) some Icelandic sites and blogs; all of them telling stories- each in their own fashion:

Reading in Reykjavík, by "Bibliophile" is a first-rate book blog with a twist- every Friday she posts an Icelandic folk tale and encourages readers to retell it in their own words, helping to keep the oral tradition of these stories alive. Check out her other blogs too- her food blog is wonderful.

Midnight Shoveler is the blog of Nathan Hall, a composer and Fulbright scholar, on a fellowship in Iceland. Great coverage of the classical scene, especially choirs, along with general trips around the rock.

The Dog-Days Queen is Abi Cooper, a young woman from Somerset who is a rabid Halldór Laxness fan and lives and works in Reykjavík. Lots of photos and stories of her adventures.

I've been following Maria Roff's Iceland Eyes for almost 7 years now, she's recently redone her award-winning blog, including a dynamic view option. Years of posts, photos, and links make this one of the most informative blogs about Iceland. A must for someone thinking about a visit.

The Welsh/Irish artist Annie Atkins has been mentioned here many times, the Little Pinch of Salt is one of the few blogs you can read from beginning to end- just like a novel. She's back in Iceland for a little while, the first link is a good example of her elegant, bittersweet writing style, the second displays some of her photographic talent.

Last, but certainly not least, is I Heart Reykjavík, a new web site by Auður Ösp, offering pictures and short stories about the sights and "scenes" in Iceland's biggest city. Auður has a "wealth" of knowledge about the city and expresses herself with a quirky writing style with a perspective you'll seldom find in a guide book. She's worked in the travel industry for years.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 4 


Tuesday, October 06, 2015

The Batty has Landed


Auður's comrade Ásta conducted the tour.

I'm now safely ensconced in my 101 Reykjavík apartment. I've already been on the I Heart Reykjavík Tour, got my rental bike and I am now heading out to the pool.

UPDATE: The pool was, as it always is, sublime. It was sunny, with a light breeze, airtemp was 8° c. (about 46° f.) There are two new GIANT 'hot-pots', better for extended lounging, but not as intense as the old ones (which are still there.)
Got into an extended conversation with a woman of 'indeterminate' age, the first topic always seems to be "why Iceland?"

Maybe a concert tonight?

UPDATE: I gave up and was in bed by 19:30 hours.

By Professor Batty


Comments: 1 


Friday, May 14, 2010

Not Jim


Bárujárn, Reykjavík, 2009

In the calm before the strum, I had struck up a conversation with a local musician. I had seen her perform a lively set in this same building in 2006. She was curious about me: Why was I there? What were my interests in music? Why Flippism? We had a nice talk. She asked if I had done any recording. I mentioned that I had released a 45 in mid-seventies.

"What was it like?"

"It was horrible!"

"No, I mean what kind of music was it? Did it sound like any other group?"

"Well, I guess some people thought it sounded like the Doors..."

PBS ran a new documentary about that band last night. It was pretty good in capturing the smoky, greasy hedonism of that era- lots of vintage clips, mixed in with some modern re-enactments. It didn't glorify the band and it certainly showed the bad side of Jim Morrison, especially when he had been drinking. But the music itself remains as it was: neither rock nor jazz, not really blues either, sounding almost like a carnival or burlesque theater at times. The band as a whole was certainly greater than the sum of its parts. And Jim was beautiful and sexy and dark- he was the antithesis of the pop singers of the day. I never bought any Doors records, I didn't need to- their music was everywhere, I knew most of the songs by heart. That record which I had made in 1976 may have been an unconscious emulation of the Doors, although my dark days had been several years earlier- at just about the same time that Jim was on his downward spiral:

By Professor Batty


Comments: 8 


Thursday, February 02, 2012

Iceland Airwaves 2012


Iceland Airwaves crowd, 2011

Numerous videos and films have covered Iceland Airwaves in the past, most notably the full-length Screaming Masterpiece (2005) which derived most of its footage from the festival. None of them have really given more than just fractured glimpses, and none have really captured the feeling of what is like to be part of the scene. There's a new promo video out, sponsored by Icelandair. It is really just a redone version of last year's but with some new scenes, interviews and a little tighter editing.

AIRWAVES- a Rockumentary by Gudjon and Bowen Staines gives a coherent look at what is essentially an unclassifiable event: over one hundred Icelandic acts, numerous international groups poised on the cusp of greatness, in an incomparable setting. Don't take my word for it. Watch the 40 minute video, in full-screen HD if you can, it really gives a sense of being there.

There are some problems the film only addressed obliquely, however. The festival may becoming a victim of its own success- more shows are being steered toward Harpa, a large complex of auditoria on the waterfront. It was built by somewhat dubious financing. Harpa is almost the antithesis of the festival's homegrown roots. Pushing the date into November may mean that those sunny scenes of frolics in the Blue Lagoon (shown in the video) are already a memory. Still, it is the spirit of the young (and young at heart) people of Iceland which is what The Airwaves Festival is all about.

I'm almost ready to make my reservations.

For those who can't wait until November, Live in the Lobby is a weekly concert series held at the Downtown Hostel. Many thanks to Auður Ösp, from the I Heart Reykjavík web site for the tip. I've seen many clips from shows held there- it is a very intimate and inviting place. Be sure to check out Auður's site- it is full of ideas for fun in Reykjavík and the surrounding area (that's her in the screenshot above- right below the woman showing her teeth in the center of the picture.)

By Professor Batty


Comments: 4 


Sunday, December 01, 2024

A Month of Auður

One of the prime inspirations for the FITK blog was a young Icelandic woman, Auður Ösp Ólafsdóttir.

In early 2004, while researching a trip to Iceland, I discovered her English-language blog A Woman Without A Man. It was written journal-style and full of the various minutiæ of her daily life in Reykjavík. What set it apart from the thousands of other newly-minted blogs of the day was her engaging and revelatory writing, the frankness of which got her into a bit of trouble with some of her Icelandic readers, so she killed her blog in September 2004. By that time we had already been in contact so I offered to let her use FITK as an outlet. She used that access to write a baker’s dozen of posts under the nom de plume of Little Miss Loopy. These will be featured here throughout December as part of my “20 Years Ago on FITK” series.

Auður’s internet adventures didn’t end there.

She went on to write several more blogs and in 2011 she started I Heart Reykjavík, a tourist site which was also a portal to her walking tours. Heart was a rousing success but it ended when Covid restrictions were put into place in March of 2020. Her videos are still up, however.

Auður is currently self-employed and has a web site, posting primarily in Icelandic.
This month also marks my phasing out of Icelandic posts, there may be one here and there in following months/years, but that well is just about dry.

As always, you can access over 200 ‘best of’ Icelandic posts in the sidebar under ‘Iceland.’

By Professor Batty


Comments: 0 


Wednesday, February 20, 2019

Antisocial Media



As FITK enters its fifteenth year, I find myself looking back at the journey, trying to justify make sense of it all. Inspired by Auður Ösp who hosted the now defunct preeminent Icelandic website I Heart Reykjavík), FITK started at the time when blogs were exploding on the scene, growing from such early web hosting services such as LiveJournal™ and Diaryland™, offering a more mature experience than MySpace™. For a short time Blogger™ (aka Blogspot™) became the most successful of these because of its ease of use and its customization. It was buggy in its early days, although after it was bought out by Google it became much more reliable. WordPress™ and Typepad™ promised more sophisticated management and expanded greatly. These two, along with Blogger™, still host the vast majority of blogs. When Facebook™, Twitter™, and Instagram™ (“FBTI”) became ascendant, the role of the traditional blog diminished.

In light of the hideous abuses of FBTI there have been some stirrings of late lamenting the current situation and suggestions that the old blog model may still have some advantages. There are even some who miss the old hokey graphics, a trough of nostalgia that I’m not about to wallow in. One real threat, however, is the tyranny of search engines. If you are writing about something that doesn’t “fit” the engine’s model, you might as well pack it up. A good example of this elimination strategy is on the now “sketchy” YouTube. Even only a couple of years ago you would get videos related to the one you are watching on the sidebar. Now, almost without exception, you get sponsored posts, often by right-wing hacks. You definitely don’t want young children to be watching it. 

When I do look back on my internet adventures, however, there is a lot of good that has come out of it, meeting great people (both on-line and IRL) and doing many wonderful things as result. My recent trip to 2018 Iceland Airwaves, for example, rekindled my enthusiasm for Icelandic culture and its people, an enthusiasm that has spilled over to others areas. Although my readership is a fraction of what it was ten years ago there are still people from all over the world coming to the site and discovering things on it everyday. If you have time, the links above lead to in-depth articles about what I’ve been blathering here, you might find it worthwhile.

UPDATE: It could be worse… 
UPDATE UPDATE: It could be really worse
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE: It could be really, really, worse

By Professor Batty


Comments: 1 




. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ©Stephen Charles Cowdery, 2004-2025 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .